BACK TO BASICS | MADE-TO-MEASURE SUITS

LAPELS
At first glance, the folded flaps of cloth on the front of your made-to-measure suit jackets may all look the same. However, the lapel actually comes in three basic forms, each of which corresponds to a different style of jacket and occasion.

THE NOTCH LAPEL

The most common variety.
Notch lapels are the standard on single-breasted suits and a safe bet for most guys. You're not the most guys? Go for the slim lapel version for a more casual look.

THE PEAK LAPEL

A stylish choice for formal occasions.
The peak lapel is often associated with style and refinement and is generally only found on formal coats, tuxedos, and double and single-breasted jackets. Nevertheless, if you’re looking to make a statement, the peak lapel is for you.

THE SHAWL LAPEL

A versatile choice for evening wear.
The shawl lapel is most commonly found on tuxedos and mess jackets. Characterised by its rounded cut, this style is inspired by the smoking jacket and can be a perfectly classy choice for your next formal affair.

BUTTONING UP
Double-breasted made-to-measure suit jackets are more formal and fashion-forward, and single-breasted suits are more common for every day.

SINGLE-BREASTED ONE-BUTTON:
As a standard rule, it is proper suiting etiquette to have your suit buttoned when you are standing or walking, and unbuttoned when sitting. With a one-button suit, this is your only and easiest option.

SINGLE-BREASTED TWO-BUTTON:
[We recommend this as two buttons are the standard on suits.]
If you’ve ever done up both buttons on a two-button suit, you’ve probably noticed that it both looks and feels odd. To avoid your suit looking like it is pulling, only have the top button done and leave the second one alone.

SINGLE-BREASTED THREE-BUTTON:
Three buttons are ideal for taller men with longer torsos. The more the buttons, the more options you have. With this one, you can just keep it simple by buttoning the middle one, or you could also button the top two. Remember, as with two-button suits, leave the bottom one undone.

DOUBLE-BREASTED:
Keep in mind that a double-breasted jacket can have up to eight buttons. The most common double-breasted suit has 6 buttons and follows the same principle above - leave the last button undone.

VENTS

The slits or cuts on the back of your suit jacket.

Vents allow for both a tailored fit and easy mobility. The two options do not differ in functionality and are simply based on preference.

DOUBLE VENTS:
These are more traditional, and are recommended for straighter body types as it complements parallel contours.

CENTRE VENTS:
These is the more modern option, and are recommended for bigger body types as centre flaps help to maintain the straight overall structure of the suit.

There you have it, our quick back-to-basics guide on the fundamental options available when crafting made-to-measure suits.